my number one collection now is Junya Watanabe aw2011 – it’s so strong, clear, sophisticated and modern at the same time and all of these were made just with a few ideas and tricks. in fact, it’s sort of a study of one of the cliche´looks of modern fashion – you know this punk/goth look – biker jackets, chelsea boots, bleached hairs, loose knits and ugly furs. Watanabe made all these look elegant and innovative without a hint of banality or tackiness. This season made me think about his aw07 collection also built around the idea of a deconstructed biker jacket and twisted 30s references, but those one was more about grunge with its polka-dot and liberty-print dresses worn with extended jersey cardigans. But back to aw2011 – just look at the series of waist darts which are responsible for the hourglass shapes of the jackets and at those exaggerated collars forming such an interesting shoulder line. Personally I’m not a fan of the fur pieces, but apart from that I love every single aspect of this collection and of course I was pleasantly surprised to know that the soundtrack for the show was male voice reading Rimbaud’s ‘Ophelia’. Perfect.


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