Somehow while uploading the pictures for my post with the CdG photographs I started to think about Wolfflin’s principles of analyzing of art described in his ‘Principles of Art History’. I mean this contradiction of painterly vs. linear, because for me the clothes on those photos look quite painterly (actually reminding me of Francis Bacon’s works). I tried to apply this concept to works of other designers as well. Thinking about it I found Dries van Noten, Lanvin, Rodarte, Vivien Westwood to be the painterly ones, while Givenchy, Jil Sander and Prada seems to be the examples of the ‘linear’ ones. Though sometimes it’s quite difficult to decide, for instance among Hussein Chalayan’s work there are some which are more graphical and ‘clean’ and the others where there are a beautifully chaotic mash up of textures, colors and volumes.
I remember that while reading Wolfflin the most interesting parts for me were the ones where the concept of ‘painterly vs. linear’ was described with examples from sculpture and architecture which for me speaks about the versatility of the concept.
In case of fashion I think that the ‘painterly’ designers in general are the ones who work more with volume, cut and textures, while the ‘linear’ are obviously so-called minimalists, designers whose works might be described as ‘structural’ and brands specializing in prints and patterns. Though sometimes ‘painterly’ and ‘linear’ elements could be combined in one outfit or in one collection. All in all I think it’s interesting to try to apply this concept to fashion and see the results. I also think that it could be interesting to put in this context the work of different stylists.
Also I’d say that for me painterly vs. linear concept is in some sense one of many incarnations of the chaos vs. order juxtaposition and it might be case of why it’s so universal.
Here’s my new fascination – works by Tsuguharu Foujita, especially his ink portraits and nudes. I like their exquisite, sinuous lines, pearlescent colors, beautifully disproportioned faces and bodies. He knew well what exactly he liked and could picture it perfectly, with a unique combination of eastern and western techniques and aesthetics. Hope one day I could get something from Jil Sander s/s 2010 collection featuring Foujita’s works. I remember how at first I didn’t like it at all probably because it was quite far from the style which I used to associated with mr. Simons but soon after the runway show the collection started to grow on me and now I consider it to be one of the Raf’s best for JS menswear.